Bristol's Garden Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Fruit in City Spaces
Every 20 minutes or so, an older diesel train arrives at a graffiti-covered station. Nearby, a law enforcement alarm pierces the near-constant road noise. Daily travelers rush by collapsing, ivy-covered fencing panels as rain clouds gather.
It is perhaps the least likely spot you expect to find a well-established vineyard. However James Bayliss-Smith has cultivated 40 mature vines sagging with round purplish berries on a sprawling garden plot situated between a row of historic homes and a local rail line just above the city town centre.
"I've noticed individuals hiding illegal substances or other items in the shrubbery," says Bayliss-Smith. "Yet you just get on with it ... and continue caring for your grapevines."
The cameraman, 46, a documentary cameraman who also has a fermented beverage company, is among several urban winemaker. He's pulled together a informal group of cultivators who make vintage from several hidden urban vineyards tucked away in private yards and community plots across the city. It is sufficiently underground to have an official name so far, but the group's WhatsApp group is called Vineyard Dreams.
City Wine Gardens Across the World
So far, Bayliss-Smith's allotment is the only one registered in the Urban Vineyards Association's forthcoming world atlas, which features more famous urban wineries such as the eighteen hundred vines on the hillsides of the French capital's renowned artistic district area and more than 3,000 grapevines with views of and inside the Italian city. The Italian-based charitable organization is at the vanguard of a movement reviving urban grape cultivation in traditional winemaking nations, but has identified them throughout the globe, including urban centers in Japan, South Asia and Central Asia.
"Grape gardens assist cities remain greener and ecologically varied. These spaces protect land from development by establishing long-term, productive farming plots within urban environments," explains the association's president.
Like all wines, those created in urban areas are a result of the earth the vines grow in, the unpredictability of the weather and the individuals who tend the grapes. "Each vintage represents the charm, local spirit, environment and history of a urban center," adds the president.
Mystery Polish Grapes
Returning to Bristol, the grower is in a urgent timeline to gather the grapevines he grew from a cutting abandoned in his allotment by a Polish family. If the precipitation comes, then the birds may seize their chance to attack again. "This is the mystery Eastern European variety," he says, as he removes damaged and rotten berries from the glistering bunches. "The variety remains uncertain their exact classification, but they are certainly hardy. In contrast to noble varieties – Pinot Noir, white wine grapes and additional renowned French grapes – you don't have to spray them with pesticides ... this is possibly a special variety that was bred by the Soviets."
Group Efforts Throughout the City
Additional participants of the group are also making the most of bright periods between showers of autumn rain. On the terrace with views of the city's glistening waterfront, where medieval merchant vessels once bobbed with casks of vintage from Europe and Spain, Katy Grant is collecting her dark berries from approximately fifty vines. "I love the smell of the grapevines. The scent is so reminiscent," she remarks, pausing with a container of grapes slung over her shoulder. "It recalls the fragrance of Provence when you roll down the car windows on holiday."
Grant, fifty-two, who has spent over two decades working for charitable groups in conflict zones, inadvertently inherited the vineyard when she moved back to the United Kingdom from Kenya with her household in 2018. She felt an overwhelming duty to maintain the vines in the yard of their recently acquired property. "This vineyard has already survived three different owners," she explains. "I deeply appreciate the concept of environmental care – of handing this down to someone else so they continue producing from this land."
Sloping Vineyards and Traditional Winemaking
Nearby, the remaining cultivators of the collective are hard at work on the steep inclines of the local river valley. Jo Scofield has cultivated more than 150 vines perched on ledges in her wild half-acre garden, which tumbles down towards the muddy local waterway. "People are always surprised," she notes, indicating the interwoven grape garden. "They can't believe they are viewing grapevine lines in a city street."
Today, the filmmaker, 60, is harvesting clusters of deep violet dark berries from lines of vines slung across the cliff-side with the assistance of her daughter, Luca. The conservationist, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has worked on Netflix's Great National Parks series and television network's Gardeners' World, was motivated to plant grapes after seeing her neighbour's vines. She has learned that hobbyists can produce intriguing, enjoyable traditional vintage, which can command prices of more than £7 a glass in the growing number of wine bars specialising in minimal-intervention wines. "It is incredibly satisfying that you can truly make good, traditional vintage," she says. "It's very on trend, but in reality it's resurrecting an old way of making vintage."
"When I tread the fruit, all the natural microorganisms come off the surfaces and enter the liquid," says the winemaker, partially submerged in a bucket of tiny stems, pips and red liquid. "This represents how vintages were historically produced, but industrial wineries add sulphur [dioxide] to eliminate the natural cultures and then add a commercially produced yeast."
Difficult Environments and Creative Approaches
A few doors down sprightly retiree Bob Reeve, who motivated Scofield to plant her vines, has assembled his companions to harvest white wine varieties from the 100 vines he has laid out neatly across multiple levels. Reeve, a northern English PE teacher who taught at Bristol University developed a passion for viticulture on regular visits to Europe. However it is a challenge to cultivate this particular variety in the dampness of the gorge, with cooling tides sweeping in and out from the Bristol Channel. "I aimed to produce French-style vintages here, which is a bit bonkers," says the retiree with amusement. "Chardonnay is slow-maturing and very sensitive to mildew."
"My goal was creating European-style vintages here, which is a bit bonkers"
The unpredictable local weather is not the only problem faced by winegrowers. Reeve has had to install a barrier on